The breaded cutlets known as Milanese are often made of veal, pork or chicken, but, here, tofu stands in with excellent results. To accompany, broccoli raab is a delicious choice, though mustard greens of any variety make a fine substitution.

Tofu Milanese

Ingredients:

• Salt and black pepper

• 1 (14-ounce) package firm tofu

• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

• 1 egg

• 1/2 cup whole milk

• 2 cups dried breadcrumbs, panko or homemade

• 1/4 cup chopped parsley

• 1 tablespoon roughly chopped drained capers

• 1 lemon

• 1 bunch broccoli raab (about 1 pound)

• 1 1/4 cups olive oil

• 1 garlic clove, minced

• Pinch of red-pepper flakes

Directions:

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Drain the liquid from the tofu and cut crosswise into 8 rectangular cutlets. Pat dry and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Put flour on a plate. Beat together egg and milk in a shallow medium bowl. Sprinkle breadcrumbs on a rimmed baking sheet.

Working one at a time, dip a slice of tofu in the flour, lightly coating all sides. Place in the bowl with egg mixture. Lift slice from egg mixture and set on crumbs in a single layer. Shower the top layer with crumbs and flip to coat well. Repeat with remaining slices. If not using right away, refrigerate, uncovered for up to 4 hours, until ready to cook.

To a small bowl, add parsley and capers, and zest the lemon over. Mix together, and set aside mixture, reserving the rest of the lemon.

Add broccoli raab to the boiling water and cook for 1 minute. Drain and cool.

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a wide 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic and red pepper; let sizzle without browning, about 15 to 30 seconds. Add broccoli raab and stir to coat. Cook, tossing often, for 3 to 4 minutes, until softened. Pile on a platter.

To cook cutlets, wipe out the skillet and, in the same pan, heat 1/2 inch olive oil (about 1 cup) over medium-high. When oil is wavy, cook the breaded tofu cutlets in 2 batches without crowding until golden and crisp, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined baking sheet and keep warm.

To serve, surround the broccoli raab with tofu cutlets. Stir 2 tablespoons olive oil to parsley-caper mixture. Spoon some onto each cutlet. Slice the lemon into wedges, and serve alongside the cutlet.

Total time: 35 minutes, serves 4.