The perfect burger is every griller’s aspiration and challenge: luscious, smoky and charred on the outside, moist and tender on the inside. That ideal is a challenge, because cooking the burger to a safe internal temperature of 160 degrees, as recommended by the USDA, generally yields meat that many might consider overcooked. The solution involves turning a cheeseburger inside out: Instead of laying a slice of cheese on top, you fold grated cheese into the ground beef. The cheese melts, keeping the meat moist. The other secret is to choose a richly flavored ground beef (ideally from the chuck, or a mixture of chuck, short ribs and brisket) with a relatively high fat content (15% to 20%). For best results, don’t forget to grill the bun.

Inside-Out Cheeseburgers

Ingredients:

• 2 pounds chilled ground beef (ideally 15% to 20% fat)

• 8 ounces aged provolone, sharp Cheddar or pepper jack, coarsely grated

• Neutral oil, as needed

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 4 brioche hamburger buns

• Condiments (such as mayonnaise, mustard, ketchup, Sriracha, etc.)

• Lettuce leaves

• Sliced tomatoes

• Thinly sliced onions

• Sliced pickles

Directions:

Combine the ground beef and cheese in a bowl and mix with a wooden spoon. Rinse your hands under cold water. Form the mixture into 4 burgers, each about 1 inch thick, and use your thumb to form a slight depression in the center of each. Place the burgers on a platter or small baking sheet lined with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to grill.

Light your grill and heat to high. Brush or scrape the grill grate clean. To oil your grate, fold a paper towel into a tight pad. Dip it in a small bowl of oil and, holding it at the end of your grill tongs, draw it over the bars of the grate.

Just before grilling, season the burgers on both sides with salt and pepper. Arrange the burgers on the grate, cover with grill lid and cook for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes; then, using a metal spatula, rotate each burger a quarter turn (this will help them cook more evenly). Cook until siz zling and browned on the bottom, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes longer. Flip the burgers and cook the other side the same way, with lid closed. To test for doneness, insert the probe of an instant-read thermometer through the side of the burger; you’re looking for a safe temperature of 160 degrees.

Meanwhile, open the buns and toast the cut sides on the grill as well, about 1 minute. (Watch carefully.)

Assemble the burgers: Slather the buns with your favorite condiments. Place a lettuce leaf on the bottom. (This keeps the meat juices from making the bun soggy.) Add the burger, tomatoes, onions, pickles and, finally, the top bun.

Total time: 40 minutes, makes 4 burgers.