For a main course, this easy fish dish features flavors enjoyed in many Middle Eastern dishes and meant to be together — cumin, lemon and bay, so fragrant and satisfying. Use any firm-fleshed white fish fillets, such as halibut, snapper or rockfish. (Using small whole fish like branzino is another possibility.) The fish can be roasted, uncovered, in a hot oven, beneath the broiler or in a covered grill. The lemon and bay get slightly charred, and their perfume immediately infuses the fish in a beautiful way.

ROASTED HALIBUT WITH CUMIN, LEMON AND BAY

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 pounds boneless halibut or other firm, skinless white fish, cut into 4 equal pieces
• Salt and pepper
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin, preferably from lightly toasted seeds
• 16 large bay leaves, fresh or dried
• 2 lemons, cut crosswise into thin rounds (about 16 slices total)
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• Good pinch of Maras pepper, Korean gochujang or other red-pepper flakes

Directions:

Lay fish fillets on a rimmed baking sheet or a shallow baking dish. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the fillets with half the cumin and rub it into the flesh. Place 2 bay leaves and 2 slices lemon on top of each piece. Flip and repeat seasoning with salt, pepper and remaining cumin. Top each with 2 more bay leaves and lemon slices on the other side. Drizzle each piece generously with olive oil. Set aside to marinate for 15 to 20 minutes.

Arrange oven rack on top shelf. Heat oven to 425 degrees. When it reaches temperature, slide baking sheet onto top shelf. Bake, uncovered, for 12 to 15 minutes, until fish flakes easily. (Alternatively, grill fish, covered, or cook uncovered under the broiler.) Transfer fish to individual plates and drizzle with any remaining oil in the pan. Lemon and bay leaf may look slightly charred. Sprinkle with a small amount of red-pepper flakes.

Total time: 35 minutes, serves 4.