If you have a crowd for breakfast, overnight French toast is a winning idea. Instead of standing over the stove, cooking slice after slice, it bakes in the oven and emerges puffed and golden and ready for a big glug of maple syrup. Try making it with a stale loaf that you forgot to eat. A fat brioche, fruit-filled panettone or a braided challah all work well. Stay away from croissants, though: Their chewy interiors are best enjoyed fresh.

Overnight French Toast
Ingredients:
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened, plus more for baking dish
• 1 pound enriched bread, such as brioche, challah or panettone, sliced 3/4-inch thick
• 1/4 cup golden raisins (optional)
• 6 large eggs
• 2 1/2 cups whole milk
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 1/3 cup light brown sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• Pinch of freshly ground nutmeg
• 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/3 cup pecans, chopped (optional)
• Powdered sugar for dusting (optional)
• Maple syrup, for serving

Directions:
Butter a 2-quart baking dish. Butter the front sides of the slices of bread and shingle the slices upright in the dish, overlapping as necessary. Nestle the raisins, if using, evenly between the slices of bread but not on top.

In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, cream, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla and salt until well combined. Pour the milk mixture over the bread and press the bread gently to absorb. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Remove the plastic wrap. Sprinkle the pecans evenly over the top. Bake until puffed, golden and set in the center, 50 to 60 minutes. While baking, if the top begins to get too dark, tent with foil. Let stand 10 minutes. Dust with powdered sugar and serve with maple syrup.
Total time: 1 hour, plus chilling, serves 6-8.