By Susan Scott
Even with dozens of South Pacific visions dancing in my head, my own island still dazzles. During a Lanikai beach walk at dawn last week — the first since my return — I watched great frigate birds and red-footed booby birds glide over my head, tripped over ghost crab sand pyramids and nodded hello to a dozen Homo sapiens come to marvel at sunrise on Oahu.
By Susan Scott
The first leg of my South Pacific voyage is over. It took me three months to outfit the boat in Mexico, sail to the Marquesas, explore the Tuamotu Archipelago and get Honu put up in a Tahiti marina. Now I'm going home.
By Susan Scott
FAKARAVA ATOLL, Tuamoto Archipelago » To pass the evenings at anchor here in the South Pacific's winter, Craig and I often watch movies on the boat's computer.
By Susan Scott
The hardest part of writing about the marine life here in the Tuamotos is staying focused. With turquoise water so clear I want to drink it, so warm I can snorkel for hours and so teeming with fish and invertebrates that I feel I'm living inside a South Seas aquarium, I change my topic every five minutes.
By Susan Scott
KAUEHI, Tuamoto Archipelago » With laundry done, the galley loaded with mangoes and a crew change (my husband, Craig, replaced friends John and Alex), it was time for my 37-foot boat Honu to sail on.
By Susan Scott
NUKU HIVA, Marquesas Islands » I have so many fish under my sailboat, Honu, that I can hear them from inside the cabins. At first the sounds were gentle splashes, but at dawn several loud bangs against the hull sent me flying out of my bunk to see what I hit.
By Susan Scott
TAIOHAE BAY, NUKU HIVA, Marquesas Islands » Twenty-six days after leaving Mexico on my 37-foot sailboat, Honu, I dropped anchor in a bay so stunningly beautiful I felt I had landed in the middle of a movie set.
By Susan Scott
Latitude 8S, Longitude 138W, Day 26 » I am typing these words with water-wrinkled fingers in a sailboat rolling so hard side-to-side that I can barely
stay seated.
By Susan Scott
We crossed the equator on Day 20. It was a joyful event for my two crew members and me on our 2,700-mile voyage from Mexico to the Marquesas aboard my 37-foot sailboat, Honu.
By Susan Scott
OCEANIA, latitude 7N, longitude 120W » My voyage from Mexico to the Marquesas on my 37-foot sailboat, Honu, continues. This is Day 13 at sea with as many, or more, left to go.
By Susan Scott
LA CRUZ DE HUANACAXTLE, Mexico » I've been trying to enjoy the wildlife during this visit to Mexico, but some days it seems like it's another chore to squeeze into my work-filled days.
By Susan Scott
Reader Gerrie Quinn of Sydney emailed a question about stinging marine worms. During an October 2009 vacation in Fiji, Gerrie jumped off a tour boat for a swim and crossed paths with a swarm of worms.
By Susan Scott
Why is it that tons of people and organizations are not trying to catch as many crown of thorn starfish as possible as we learn that the great reefs are greatly endangered by them?"
By Susan Scott
My recent column about the successful elimination of rats from Palmyra Atoll, a National Wildlife Refuge 1,000 miles south of Hawaii, garnered some good questions and comments.
By Susan Scott
Last week I braved the North Shore's bone-chilling cold to go snorkeling. It was worth the chicken skin. I got to look down the throat of a spaghetti worm.
By Susan Scott
Last week I came home from a trip to a good-news email. A year after a team of workers made an enormous effort to get rid of rats on Palmyra Atoll, a national wildlife refuge 1,000 miles south of Hawaii, its islands remain rat-free.
By Susan Scott
One windy January day in 1983, shortly after moving to Hawaii, I ran into my University of Hawaii physiology lab partner, born and raised on Oahu. Staring at the mask and snorkel in my hand, he asked where I was going.
By Susan Scott
Today marks the end of my 25th year of writing this column, but no worries. I plan on getting in at least another 25 years' worth, maybe more.
By Susan Scott
When I rent a slip for my sailboat, as I have been doing on and off in Mexico for the last two years, I don't have to take
the boat anywhere to have memorable wildlife experiences.
By Susan Scott
TRES MARIETAS, BANDERAS BAY, Mexico » When my husband, Craig, and I sailed Honu to this volcanic island group last week, we found the ocean floor 30 feet below
the boat exquisitely visible.
By Susan Scott
In 1988 when visiting the Galapagos Islands, I met my first blue-footed boobies. The seabirds nested nearly everywhere on the ground there, some raising their chicks right in the middle of paths trod by countless human visitors.
By Susan Scott
On a moving sailboat, darkness hides danger. At night I can't see rocks, reefs or debris in the water. Small lights in the distance might be a nearby dinghy that I should veer to avoid, or a distant container ship speeding my way.
By Susan Scott
Today and for the next few weeks, I'm writing from my sailboat, Honu, currently moored in a marina in Mexico's Banderas Bay, famous for humpback whales, tropical fish and national park islands loaded with seabirds.
By Susan Scott
Last week, while snorkeling off Lanikai Beach, I found a huge, gorgeous black-and-white wana strolling along a stretch of
white sand with all the confidence of an armored tank.
By Susan Scott
My friend Valerie, an avid snorkeler, recently emailed her observation of two lizardfish on the North Shore: "They were nose
to nose, about an inch apart.
By Susan Scott
Ishare a sailboat with family and friends in the Ala Wai Boat Harbor, but nine years ago, when the state condemned our finger pier, we had to walk a plank to get aboard. In addition to that wobbly hurdle, several of us had frightening encounters with transients in the neighborhood. As a result, we rarely used the boat.
By Susan Scott
I love the idea of eating aliens, but a Sept. 19 article in this paper about Samoan crabs ("Invite the invaders to dinner") left me with questions. What, I wondered, are crabs from Samoa doing in Hawaii?
By Susan Scott
In my Sept. 10 column, I wrote that rays have been reported giving birth while leaping from the water, but I never knew anyone who saw it. Now I do.
By Susan Scott
I don't have many traditions in this column, but writing about the comings and goings of kolea, the migratory shorebirds also known as Pacific golden plovers, is becoming one of them. After my recent report on the birds' return, the mail poured in.
By Susan Scott
Hawaii's favorite birds are back. My first email regarding the return of a Pacific golden plover came July 30 in an unsigned note: "I live in Mililani Mauka and came home to see my favorite Kolea in my back yard this afternoon! :)"
By Susan Scott
Last week I emailed a Texas friend and longtime reader that I was going hiking in Yosemite National Park. Shirley replied, "This time of year must be nice in Yosemite. Bet you will get some good subjects there, too."
By Susan Scott
One of the most tedious tasks after a sailing trip is editing and filing new photos. But organizing is crucial. If I can't find my pictures, I can't share them.
By Susan Scott
After a day of sailing near Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, I jumped off the boat in an anchorage called Yelapa Cove. The water gave me instant relief from the summer heat, but it also gave me pause.
By Susan Scott
ISLAS TRES MARIETAS, Mexico » As our sailboat, Honu, motored along in glassy flat water, a sparkling, 2- to 3-foot-long needlefish astonished me by getting up on its tail and "walking" on water.
By Susan Scott
La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Mexico » While working on my sailboat and waiting for my husband to join me here, I went snorkeling and got an ear infection. Now I have to stay out of the water.
By Susan Scott
I have on my desk several new items of interest for marine animal fans. One is made of paper, and the others swim among the colorful reefs of my iPad.
By Susan Scott
On an early morning beach walk last week, I found on the North Shore a faded pink toy washed ashore. The 4 1/2-inch-long plastic figure, pictured at right, had big rodent teeth hanging from a smiling mouth.
By Susan Scott
While walking my dog last week, I saw a male kolea prance across our path. The bird was at the top of its game, so fat and fabulous in its spring breeding outfit that I had to stop and stare.
By Susan Scott
While snorkeling off the Kaneohe Bay sandbar, reader Shannon Garcia took several photos of a striking moray eel. When she got home and couldn't find the species in books or online, Shannon asked me via email whether she could send the picture for identification.
By Susan Scott
As I was examining the new book “Certainly More Than You Wanted to Know About the Fishes of the Pacific Coast, a Postmodern Experience,” it fell open to a photo of a fish I don’t know and a passage that caught my eye: “Scandinavians report that oarfish flesh sucks big time and even dogs won’t eat it. However, I imagine dogs would roll in it, big time.”
By Susan Scott
I kissed a frigate bird. This isn't something I've been dying to do. I've seen these seabirds' hooked beaks and sharp claws in action during their aerial attacks on booby birds.
By Susan Scott
For a seabird fan like me, a little splash of guano is no big deal. But last week, during a nighttime voyage from La Paz to Mazatlan, Mexico, a booby and a frigatebird tested my limits.
By Susan Scott
Singapore reader Ben Nottle sent me a 41-second eel video, goo.gl/fOJ6E, so entertaining I watched it half a dozen times. Ben's circumstances while filming were not ideal for cheering — he's scuba diving — yet you can hear his whoops of joy.
By Susan Scott
My column last week about my fine day on the North Shore prompted several emails from readers asking if I would please share the location of my newly discovered sea horse pasture.
By Susan Scott
Afilm I saw recently, Woody Allen's "Midnight in Paris," and a book I'm enjoying, Stephen King's "9/22/63," are stories about
people who visit the past.
By Susan Scott
My columns bring back good memories. Last week, though, while scanning my 2011 headlines, I made a shocking discovery. I had not written about one of the year's best fish experiences.
By Susan Scott
One of the highlights of my recent voyage in Mexico's waters was an unexpected face-to-face encounter with a whale shark, which
I described in this column as a giant, harmless, plankton-eating fish.
By Susan Scott
One of my greatest joys is sharing my boat with awesome animals. Dolphins play in Honu's bow wave, seabirds perch in the rigging, and at night, light-making organisms reveal twinkling trails of fish on the go.
By Susan Scott
It's enough to worry about stepping on one of the bazillion stingrays that inhabit the bays here in the Sea of Cortez, but I need to worry about getting electrocuted, too?
By Susan Scott
My sailboat has a new cylindrical light atop its main mast. This is not your grandmother's mast light. It's an energy-efficient, exceptionally bright LED, red on the left side, green on the right and white at the back.
By Susan Scott
I did it off western Australia years ago on an organized tour. Last year I did it by myself in the northern Sea of Cortez. A week ago I did it in the southern Sea of Cortez with my husband, Craig.
By Susan Scott
I have had some memorable experiences swimming with California sea lions here in the Sea of Cortez, but none as thrilling as
two incidents last week.
By Susan Scott
While snorkeling in four feet of water recently, I startled an invisible flatfish. The fish shot forward in a cloud of sand, undulating to a new spot like a fringed flying carpet.
By Susan Scott
Stony seaweeds are hard in more ways than one. My visiting niece recently collected a handful of warty, purple-and-white spheres on a North Shore beach. She though they were coral.
By Susan Scott
I recently wrote about an armchair-size coral head I named Fuller Brush Rock after the dozens of bristly shrimps I found clinging to its top. The striped, 2- to 3-inch-long shrimp in fur coats hung there for weeks. One day they were gone and I never saw them again.
By Susan Scott
Our humpback whales are back. Well, at least three are back, one spotted Sept. 26 off the Kona Coast and two more seen last week near Lanai. The rest of their cohorts will arrive from Alaska within the next month or two.
By Susan Scott
When I saw a new book called “Lonely Planet’s 1000 Ultimate Sights,” my first move was to check the index for Hawaii entries. If Hawaii wasn’t listed often for awesomeness, I thought, the book missed the boat.
By Susan Scott
Stony corals rank high on my please-don't-ask-me-to-name-it list. I understand the basics of how these reef-builders eat, secrete, breed and build, but there are so many species and so many forms, colors, shapes and textures of each of those species, I've given up trying to identify them. I enjoy them nameless.
By Susan Scott
The tradewinds have been blowing steadily this week, bringing to our shores the good, the bad and the ugly. Good first. Joren of Laie emailed that he found near the shoreline some blue floating creatures that look like they have wings or legs.
By Susan Scott
If a science-fiction writer invented a fish with a horse head, monkey tail and kangaroo pouch, made the males get pregnant
and called the thing a sea monster ("campus" in Greek), well, it would be easier to believe in dragons.
By Susan Scott
When an adult male orca dives beneath your kayak, is it reasonable to feel a tinge of fear? The question crossed my mind last
week as I sat, barely breathing, listening to the whale's whistles and wondering where the big guy would surface.
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